First impressions of Naples, shutters and graffiti befitting a post-apocalyptic suburban warzone…
Not the best start to a holiday but don’t stop reading just yet. Our first experience of Italy was the view from the small plane window as we landed. Colourful flats and apartment buildings squeezed together reminiscent of old middle eastern cities. Much of it overgrown appearing to be reclaimed by nature and always with Vesuvius standing watch over the city. After landing we got into our transfer car and proceeded on a most unpleasant journey, what became our first experience of drivers and traffic in southern Italy. Suffice to say it was frightening. As well as the speed, near misses and engine warning light there was the city going past out the window; shutters, graffiti and overflowing rubbish gave the impression of a Mafia ruled Gotham City. Little did I know that in the daylight this would become a unique part of the cities charm.
After settling at the hotel we decided we should avoid venturing too far and find the nearest restaurant. Just down the road was a pizzeria which became our first experience of Italian food. A menu board out front with subtitles in English, while questioning the authenticiy, beconed the weary tourist. There were 2 major experiences from the meal:
- Italians understand gluten free (just say “senza glutine”)
- Limoncello is simple but delicious
After dinner we went for a brief wander before returning to the hotel to get a good nights sleep.
On to day 2 and with only two full days in Naples we had to rush to see everything like a pair of meerkats on a lion safari. In the daylight another world from that we experiened the night before appeared, and the longer we wandered and let ourselves sink into this new world, the more we felt we understood it.
Turning into a small alleyway, our first stop was Madre, the museum of modern art. Walking in the front we’re presented with a display of colourful papier mache figures, a somewhat disconcerting greeting. It is a big place with a great variety of beautiful, evocative and thought-provoking pieces. My favorite piece was a sheet of complete black that reflected no light, I got lost in the depth like I could fall into it and keep falling forever. Another was a wall made of wrought iron girders and glass, behind which was a huge rusty anchor. I could practically smell the ocean.
The more we wandered, the more we noticed an interesting part of the Napoli landscape. Small shrines (Edicola Votiva) covered the city, on every small street and back alley. It’s no secret that the Italians have a strong religious history and culture and these shrines embody that in a beautiful way.
Next we took a short walk to the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte, the National Archeological Museum. The museum contains a lot of the artifacts recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum, statues, frescos, mosaics, stone and ironwork. A rich tapestry (or should that be mosaic) of such well preserved history. They also have an extraordinary Egyptian exhibit. Top tip: leave plenty of time as the place is very big and there is a lot to see and learn about.
Our next stop later in the afternoon was Napoli Sotteranea, a labyrinth of underground tunnels with a history dating back to the original aqueducts of the city, through to World War 2 air raid shelters. The story of the aqueducts and the people who worked them is extraordinary and the guides are excellent. A must see in the city as long as you’re not claustrophobic.
The start of day 3 saw a trip to the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara, a beautiful monastery in Naples, a beautiful place to relax and let the soul recover for an hour or two.
A big part of Naples is their nativity scenes. The best example we saw was in the monastery itself, a 200 year old scene the size of a small room. The detail is incredible.
If interested in the nativity scenes (even if not), then via San Gregorio Armeno is the street of nativity scene makers. A bustling street full of intricate ornate designs. Not like the nativities you might expect or be used to, the Italians incorporate everyday people and their own experiences and viewpoints into their nativities.
For the remainder of the day we wandered around the old town. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit some of the other top attractions in Naples such as Castel Nuovo and the Royal Palace of Naples, though we did our best to see them.
After dinner on our last night in Naples we took a slow wander around the town and were compelled to stop wandering past a bright open doorway. We went in to a tiny jazz bar, with just enough room for the bar and a bench, and the whole place full of cat decorations.
There we met the owner who we spent the rest of the evening getting to know. Here are some pieces of wisdom from Giovanni:
He used to be a lawyer, but decided he wanted to meet and interact with people, so he opened the bar.
Red and yellow traffic lights in Naples mean “it’s your opinion” whether to stop or go
If you find yourself in Naples then definitely have an evening in Bar Enno and ask Giovanni about his cat.
Tripadvisor Links: