Category: Travelling

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Highlights of Iceland

Five days is all it takes to fall in love with a country, when that country is Iceland…

Here’s why:

#1 The Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss)

One of the most popular tourist attraction in Iceland, but that doesn’t mean it loses any of it’s appeal. The golden circle describes a particular tourist route/road that takes you to 3 major sights. There are lots of tour companies that do the route or you can hire a car and go your own way. We went with the large local tour operator (and airport transfer company) Reykjavik Excursions.

Our first stop was Thingvellir (spelled Þingvellir – that’s the letter Thorn), a national park founded to protect the site of Iceland’s first parliament, but includes a significant site of the boundary of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. You see clearly visible the crack in the Earth where the plates meet. It is also located just north of the largest natural lake in Iceland.  

Next was Geysir, the site of natural hot (200 degrees celcius) spring and geyser that erupts about every 10 minutes. 

Lastly for the Golden Circle was the Gullfoss waterfall, an awesome feat of nature and a beautiful sight. 

#2 The water

The water in Iceland is natural volcanic rock filtered water. The stuff in the tap is basically Volvic, and it tastes great, which is lucky since a beer in Iceland will set you back around £8, or $10, so you’ll be drinking plenty of water. 

Also of interest and related to the water is the energy usage in Iceland. Almost 100% of Iceland energy is renewable. This is largely because of their significant geothermal energy resource. Most houses in Iceland are heated just by taking the hot water out of the ground and putting it through radiators. In addition, the areas where the water is really hot are prime locations for geothermal electricity plants, where not water but steam comes out of the ground under pressure and turns turbines to produce electricity. 

#3 Aurora Borealis

You can’t visit Iceland and not at least try and see the Northern Lights, and I must emphasis the word TRY. Know that the chance of seeing the Northern Lights is very luck based, depending heavily on among other things, the weather. Also bear in mind that a camera on a tripod with a long exposure will capture more than you can see with the naked eye. That being said, you cannot visit Iceland and not go hunting for the lights. 

#4 The food

If you know anyone who knows anyone who has gone to Iceland, you will have heard that it is expensive. And while that is true if you’re looking for a cheap holiday, you do not have to spend much more to enjoy really high class food. Also, because of the high level of tourism, lots of dietary requirements are catered for, and my partner and I had no trouble finding food that was gluten free or vegetarian. 

#5 Whale watching

As with the Northern Lights, you cannot visit Iceland and not try and go hunting for whales (strictly with your camera). There are a few companies that do whale watching excursions every day. As with the lights there’s a lot of luck involved, but we did manage to see some beautiful Ocean wildlife, even if it was the wrong time of year for the giant blue whales.

#6 Blue Lagoon and other hot springs

The Blue Lagoon is probably one of the most famous attractions in Iceland, and before going we had heard mixed reviews. On one hand it is expensive and has a lot of marketing hype, on the other it is an incredibly relaxing experience.

The Blue Lagoon itself is a happy accident, as the original structure there is a geothermal power plant. The steam from the ground powers the plant and when condensed back into (still warm) water, was piped out and back into the ground where it ran down through the porous volcanic rock. Due to the nature of the water and the minerals in it, the holes in the rock began to fill up, like limescale in the pipes, and warm mineral rich pools began to form. This became the Blue Lagoon spa. 

The experience was incredibly relaxing and we left feeling completely at ease and body and soul regenerated, and thankfully with no pictures of me with a silica face mask on. 

#7 The fact you can make it your own

Iceland is a country whose main attraction is it’s natural beauty. If you’re looking for a holiday where you can enjoy good food and relax, then a hotel in Reykjavik and a trip to the thermal spas is blissful. Or if you want a holiday filled with adventure then you can fly to Iceland and hire a car yourself, visit the less frequented hot springs, see the waterfalls that the tourists miss, and hunt for the Northern Lights. Iceland offers you the opportunity to experience it your way, and we will certainly be back chasing another different experience. 

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Italy Part IV – Amalfi

The most beautiful place I have ever seen…

Day 10 and it was time to depart Sorrento for Amalfi. We had a bit of a wait until midday when the transfer was due so slightly anxious about another drive in Italy we settled into the sunbeds for a couple of hours of reading and relaxation. 

The transfer was the best yet, the road from Sorrento to Amalfi winds in and out of of the mountains, rising and falling. The views from the mountain road were indescribable (sorry). 

On arriving at the hotel on top of the mountainside we were checked in and then got our first look at the view from our balcony. 

We thought that it would be difficult to improve upon the view from the balcony, but realised we were wrong at dinner that night. Cue the inspiration for the website’s header picture. 

The next day we walked down to Amalfi. I definitely recommend a good hike around the region. The houses are dotted around the hillsides connected by strings of weaving stepped alleyways. A great place to get lost, but still easy enough to find your way. Just bear in mind that is is a lot of steps, your knees may not forgive you. 

We arrived at the bottom of the many many steps in the town of Amalfi. The centrepiece of the town is the Cathedral of St. Andrew (yes the patron saint of Scotland – also Amalfi) which overlooks the main square. Surrounding the square were the usual Italian collection of leather shops, ice cream and souvenirs. A nice wander round the streets, some ice cream and (thankfully) a bus ride back up the mountain to the hotel, and settled into another evening with the amazing view. 

The following day we got the bus up to Ravello, a small village just north of Amalfi and another situated on a mountainside. This is a great place to come to escape some of the bustle of the tourists in Amalfi, a much quieter places with a couple of Villa’s with beautiful gardens to relax and recover in. We chose to visit the gardens of Villa Cimbrone, which included yet more incredible views from the mountainside as well as some very unique sculptures and structures. 

Following our recovery in the gardens we decided (much to my partners dismay) to walk back down to Amalfi through Atrani. Similar to the walk we had done the previous day involving lots (and lots) of winding steps among hillside cottages, and yet more incredible views. At the bottom in Atrani we had a quick paddle in the sea and some more ice cream. Even if you don’t make it to Ravello I heartily recommend walking between Atrani and Amalfi through the maze of tunnels and alleyways hiding the residences of these towns. While the seafronts and shops have a familiarity, these back alleys which appear to be carved through the mountain really make you feel like you’re lost somewhere wonderful. 

Our last day in Amalfi was spent at the beach sunbathing, enjoying the warm water and trying to take in the last of this incredible experience of Amalfi and Italy, though there is no doubt in my mind that we will return one day. Amalfi was the perfect end to the trip, the icing on the cake of adventure. I can see why so many fall in love with this place, it feels like a paradise, not just for tourists, but to completely get lost in. While happy to get home, I struggled to leave Italy having made so many amazing memories there.  Arrivaderci Italia, until we meet again. 

Salute my friends! Cheers!

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Italy Part III – Sorrento

A town for tourists, quintessential South Italy town of sun, sea and lemons. A great base to explore South Italy…

Our first day in Sorrento was a short tour with our guide of the town itself. It is a delightful town perched on a small cliff above a couple of small marinas full of bars and sunbeds. The main high street is filled with souvenir shops, small antique shops, leather work and art shops, ice cream and limoncello, all the delights of Italy. If you’re looking for a picturesque Italian seaside town then look no further. 

On the morning of day 6 we set out from our hotel towards Vesuvius. A short (albeit steep) hike over fine volcanic rock and sand took us up near the crater. The climb was tricky and while there was no smoke rising from the crater, the views were spectacular. It is really interesting travelling up the volcano and seeing the devastating effect it can have, with scorched woodland and solid lava flows all around. 

After Vesuvius we made a quick stop for lunch and then headed to Herculaneum, the smaller of the two main archaeological sites in the bay of Naples (the other being Pompeii of course). This was destroyed in the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD, along with Pompeii however most argue that Herculaneum is the better preserved. This is because Herculaneum is closer to the volcano than Pompeii, as such Pompeii was hit by a lot of falling rock that was thrown up into the sky while Herculaneum was likely destroyed by the lava flows themselves, preserving more of the structures. The most emotional scene was the boathouses, where over 55 skeletons were found waiting to flee the city by sea. 

Another day in Sorrento we set out on a ferry to the island of Ischia. Not as famous as the millionaires playground Capri but very beautiful and worth the day trip. We spent the first half of the day catching the ferry over and exploring the Island and the views from the top. Again these were just spectacular and the weather and scenery were beautiful. An interesting sight in Ischia is the houses which are often carved from the rock face on the hillside, rather than being built above ground, giving the impression of Hobbits or other fantastical dwellings. 

Then we headed to Giardini La Mortella, a tropical garden developed by the wife of Sir William Walton, the British composer.  If you like gardens or just fancy a peaceful place to relax then I definitely recommend exploring the gardens. There are lots of interesting species including an orchid house, some beautiful displays and water features, and a small aviary full of tropical birds.

The rest of our time in Sorrento was spent relaxing by the pool or beach, including a quick wander to the Baths of Queen Giovanna, a set of small ruins with a little picturesque blue cove.

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Italy Part II – Napoli

First impressions of Naples, shutters and graffiti befitting a post-apocalyptic suburban warzone…

Not the best start to a holiday but don’t stop reading just yet. Our first experience of Italy was the view from the small plane window as we landed. Colourful flats and apartment buildings squeezed together reminiscent of old middle eastern cities. Much of it overgrown appearing to be reclaimed by nature and always with Vesuvius standing watch over the city. After landing we got into our transfer car and proceeded on a most unpleasant journey, what became our first experience of drivers and traffic in southern Italy. Suffice to say it was frightening. As well as the speed, near misses and engine warning light there was the city going past out the window; shutters, graffiti and overflowing rubbish gave the impression of a Mafia ruled Gotham City. Little did I know that in the daylight this would become a unique part of the cities charm.

After settling at the hotel we decided we should avoid venturing too far and find the nearest restaurant. Just down the road was a pizzeria which became our first experience of Italian food. A menu board out front with subtitles in English, while questioning the authenticiy, beconed the weary tourist. There were 2 major experiences from the meal:

  • Italians understand gluten free (just say “senza glutine”)
  • Limoncello is simple but delicious

After dinner we went for a brief wander before returning to the hotel to get a good nights sleep. 

On to day 2 and with only two full days in Naples we had to rush to see everything like a pair of meerkats on a lion safari. In the daylight another world from that we experiened the night before appeared, and the longer we wandered and let ourselves sink into this new world, the more we felt we understood it.

Turning into a small alleyway, our first stop was Madre, the museum of modern art. Walking in the front we’re presented with a display of colourful papier mache figures, a somewhat disconcerting greeting. It is a big place with a great variety of beautiful, evocative and thought-provoking pieces. My favorite piece was a sheet of complete black that reflected no light, I got lost in the depth like I could fall into it and keep falling forever. Another was a wall made of wrought iron girders and glass, behind which was a huge rusty anchor. I could practically smell the ocean. 

The more we wandered, the more we noticed an interesting part of the Napoli landscape. Small shrines (Edicola Votiva) covered the city, on every small street and back alley. It’s no secret that the Italians have a strong religious history and culture and these shrines embody that in a beautiful way.  

Next we took a short walk to the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte, the National Archeological Museum. The museum contains a lot of the artifacts recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum, statues, frescos, mosaics, stone and ironwork. A rich tapestry (or should that be mosaic) of such well preserved history. They also have an extraordinary Egyptian exhibit. Top tip: leave plenty of time as the place is very big and there is a lot to see and learn about. 

Our next stop later in the afternoon was Napoli Sotteranea, a labyrinth of underground tunnels with a history dating back to the original aqueducts of the city, through to World War 2 air raid shelters. The story of the aqueducts and the people who worked them is extraordinary and the guides are excellent. A must see in the city as long as you’re not claustrophobic. 

The start of day 3 saw a trip to the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara, a beautiful monastery in Naples, a beautiful place to relax and let the soul recover for an hour or two. 

A big part of Naples is their nativity scenes. The best example we saw was in the monastery itself, a 200 year old scene the size of a small room. The detail is incredible. 

If interested in the nativity scenes (even if not), then via San Gregorio Armeno is the street of nativity scene makers. A bustling street full of intricate ornate designs. Not like the nativities you might expect or be used to, the Italians incorporate everyday people and their own experiences and viewpoints into their nativities. 

For the remainder of the day we wandered around the old town. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit some of the other top attractions in Naples such as Castel Nuovo and the Royal Palace of Naples, though we did our best to see them. 

After dinner on our last night in Naples we took a slow wander around the town and were compelled to stop wandering past a bright open doorway. We went in to a tiny jazz bar, with just enough room for the bar and a bench, and the whole place full of cat decorations. 

There we met the owner who we spent the rest of the evening getting to know. Here are some pieces of wisdom from Giovanni:

He used to be a lawyer, but decided he wanted to meet and interact with people, so he opened the bar. 

Red and yellow traffic lights in Naples mean “it’s your opinion” whether to stop or go

If you find yourself in Naples then definitely have an evening in Bar Enno and ask Giovanni about his cat. 

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Italy Part I – Intro

After I qualified I decided there were a number of things I wanted to do that I haven’t had time or resources to do before. One of these things was to travel. I know I am not the first to want to see places and experience new things and on that front I am a little behind most others, but I’m hoping that some more life experience and extra planning will help make up for that.